Tsugaru area

Cod, radish, carrot, green onion, miso

Jappa" is a word of Tsugaru dialect, which means "something to be thrown away". It is usually made from fish heads, bones, skins and entrails, which are thrown away without being eaten. Cod is an indispensable "New Year's fish" in the Tsugaru region, and there is even a local saying, "cod New Year's." In the old days, a whole large cod was called "jappa-jiru" (cod soup). In the old days, it was a tradition to buy a whole big cod and drag it home along the snowy road at the end of the year. After the fish had been grated and the meat removed, the "ara" was stewed with daikon radish, carrots, green onions, and other ingredients to warm the body from the cold. It was a hearty, easy, nutritious, and extremely tasty midwinter home cooking.

One of the New Year's dishes. Cod caught during the harsh winter season is called "cold cod" and is the most fatty of all. When there was a big catch, women waiting on the beach would make "jappa-jiru" in celebration, as in the old days. Cod are caught on the beach and cooked in the barn using homemade miso. The soup, which warms the body from the inside out, was the best feast for the men returning from a midwinter fishing trip in the extreme cold. Even today, it is an established winter beach dish that is also eaten at home.

Split the cod head in two lengthwise, cut the inside bone into bite-size pieces, and wash the entrails well. The secret to making it tasty is to make as much of it as possible in a large pot. Daikon radish and green onions are always included, but other ingredients such as vegetables and tofu vary from household to household. Once cooked, the liver is melted in at the end, which adds a rich umami flavor. Fresh milt is the most delicious.

(Outline of the people who have passed down the tradition, preservation groups, use of SNS, and modern efforts such as commercialization, etc.)
Although the opportunities to cook whole cod at home have been drastically decreasing, you can get cod ara for "jappa-jiru" at local supermarkets, which makes it easy to cook. In an effort to promote local production for local consumption, local restaurants and inns are also serving traditional "jappa-jiru" to promote the product.