Sugukizuke (suguki pickles (turnip greens)) ｜ Our Regional Cuisines

Kyoto Prefecture

Sugukizuke (suguki pickles (turnip greens))

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Image source: Kyoto Prefecture Pickle Cooperative
Image source: Kyoto Prefecture Pickle Cooperative

Main lore areas

Kyoto City
Main ingredients used

Suguki

History/origin/related events

"Suguki" is a type of turnip greens, a traditional vegetable in Kyoto, known for its distinctive acidity. It is rarely consumed outside of pickles, and "Suguki Pickles" is as famous as "Senmaizuke" and "Shibazuke," making it part of the trio of famous pickles in Kyoto. There are various theories about the origin of Suguki, including one that dates back to the Azuchi-Momoyama period when the prominent family of Kamigamo Shrine (a family serving the shrine) began cultivating it from the wild plants growing along the Kamo River, and another theory that involves receiving seeds from the Kyoto Imperial Palace.
"Suguki Pickles," which involves pickling Suguki simply with salt, is said to have originated in the early Edo period. Initially, it was a high-class pickle made exclusively by the shrine family and presented as an offering to the Imperial Palace. By the late Edo period, it started to be made by farmers around Kamigamo Shrine as well. However, due to a prohibition outlined in the "Okakizuke-koujougaki" that restricted taking Suguki out of the village, production was limited. After the Meiji Restoration, the popularity of Suguki increased, and it became widely available in the city.
The making of "Suguki Pickles" involves three main steps: pre-pickling, primary pickling, and maturing in a warming chamber called "muro." The muro is an artificially heated chamber maintained at around 40°C, promoting lactic acid fermentation. This method is now common, allowing Suguki to be ready to eat in about two weeks. In the past, instead of the muro, a natural fermentation method called "Jikounare" was used, allowing fermentation to occur naturally based on ambient temperatures. In this case, Suguki would be ready from spring to summer, and in the Edo period, it was cherished as a delicacy during the summer.
Opportunities and times of eating habits

As the season when frost sets in arrives, the sugar content in the roots of Suguki increases. Harvested from mid-November to around January, it is then pickled. Suguki is also popular as a New Year's gift.
How to eat

The leaves and turnip parts of Suguki are cut separately. The leaves are finely chopped or cut into easy-to-eat lengths, while the turnips are often sliced into half-moons or gingko leaf shapes. It is enjoyed not only as a side dish with rice but also in ochazuke (rice with tea poured over) or as a snack with alcohol.
Efforts for Preservation and Succession

(Outline of the traditions, the preservation society, social media use, modern approaches at commercialization)
Due to the need for dedicated facilities for the lactic acid fermentation process in a warming chamber, Suguki pickles are not commonly made in ordinary households. However, during the winter season, Suguki pickles become available from pickle vendors and are widely enjoyed.

Contact

Food Cultures Office, Overseas Market Development and Food Cultures Division, Food Industry Affairs Bureau, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries

Tel:+81-3-3502-5516

Sugukizuke (suguki pickles (turnip greens)) ｜ Our Regional Cuisines

Kyoto Prefecture

Sugukizuke (suguki pickles (turnip greens))

Main lore areas

Main ingredients used

History/origin/related events

Opportunities and times of eating habits

How to eat

Efforts for Preservation and Succession